How to Make Patterned Plane Shaving Veneers – Yosegi

How to Make Patterned Plane Shaving Veneers – Yosegi

How to Make Patterned Plane Shaving Veneers – Yosegi

This project wasn’t plain sailing but I did manage to get some half decent shavings. There’s plenty of improvements to be made next time I try this out but it was a fun project and I learned plenty too. 🙂 As always I’m happy to answer any questions. If you would like to support this channel you can do so here https://www.patreon.com/PaskMakes You can also help me out by purchasing one of my shirts, you can find them here https://paskmakes.threadless.com Check out my new website http://paskmakes.com/ Check out my Instagram to see more of my work https://www.instagram.com/paskmakes/ Also you can check out my photography at my website (nothing to do with making but you may be interested in what I do) http://www.neilpaskin.com My email can be found in the about section of this channel. For real mail, Pask Makes P.O BOX 768 Yandina Queensland 4561 Australia
i made a video a few months ago
where i made these plane shaving veneers
it’s a japanese craft known as Yosegi
these shavings have a random pattern
but in this video i’m going to make a new pattern
this time it won’t be random so the pieces need to be very precise
i’ll use two contrasting woods
i have this piece of pre-primed construction pine
it’s nothing fancy but it’s the lightest wooden color
that I could find
it does have finger joints in it
so i’ll just have to work around those
and for the darker wood i have this black wattle
a mate milled these for me a few years ago
they’re a bit gnarly but i’ll just see how they go
i’ll start by milling all the wood
and because the pieces of the pattern need to be pretty precise
it’s important to start with square and flat stock
i only need one good face
but i put the black wattle through the thicknesser
just so i could choose the best face
the first pieces i need will be 3mm thick
so i’m taking a slice on the bandsaw
and i’m cutting it a little oversize
i’ll make two versions of the pattern
one will be mostly light with the pine
and the veneer of the black waffle for the contrast
the other will be an inverse of that
with the black wattle as the main pieces
so whatever pieces i cut
i need to make with both species of wood
next i’ll put them through the thicknesser
and i’ll do that by sticking them down first
to this piece of laminate flooring
i’ve determined the grain direction
so i know which way to feed it into the thicknesser
then using double-sided tape i stick them all down
I put two or three lines of tape at the front of the work piece
and then every two or three inches after that
a better way to do this would be with a drum sander
but as i don’t have one of those i’ll manage with the thicknesser
i’m not surprised at all that the black wattle didn’t work out
as the grain was running in opposite directions
the pine came out perfect though
it’s just a case of experimenting
and trying different wood just to see what works best
i do have some better grade black wattle
and i’ve made some pretty thin veneers from it in the past
but instead i’m going to try this piece of reclaimed cedar
and as always the piece you need is always on the bottom
and it runs the whole length of the rack
but i only need a short section of it
as it’s only one piece
i’m cleaning it up and flattening it with a hand plane
before planing it i did have a good look for any nails
but before i go any further
i’ll use this rare earth magnet on a stick
to do a slightly better check
it’s not foolproof but by checking over the work piece thoroughly
you should be able to find any nails
i did check both sides and i checked the whole thing a couple of times
there weren’t any nails
but just to show that it does work
these drawer fronts were fixed with tiny pin nails
and the magnet finds those easily
i’ll remove the pine piece and stick down the cedar
put that through the thicknesser and see how that goes
it wasn’t quite as good as the pine
but much better than the black wattle and still very usable
i’m probably ready for some new cutters in my 
thicknesser
and that would improve things too
the 3mm pieces are all done
now i need to do the whole process again
but this time making thin veneers of around 1mm thick
again i’m cutting the slices oversize
and doing that at around 2mm
with each cut i’m making very small adjustments to the depth  
and that’s to minimize the chance of tear out
this particular double-sided tape is extremely strong
but by being careful
it isn’t too difficult to remove the veneer
and i reckon they turned out great
there’s a few imperfections
and a little tear out on the cedar
but there’s still plenty of good stuff there to work with
each piece will be made up of two 3mm boards  
and they’ll sandwich a piece of contrasting veneer
for this one i’ll use two pieces of veneer
and it should be fine and i don’t think it’ll show up in the final pieces
to clamp the pieces i’m going to use a vacuum bag
i bought this one years ago from an op shop
it was an absolute bargain
it didn’t have the pump though so i had to buy that separately
and even though i’ve had it five years
i’ve never actually used it before
that worked amazingly well
i left it overnight
and it kept the pressure up over the whole night
with no leaks at all
you may remember this jig from my recent plywood pattern video  
it has a 15 degree bed
and the blade is angled at 45 degrees
leaving a 30 degree cut
click the link above for that video
and you can see the jig in more detail
i’m using a stop to dial in the correct width of the pieces
and then making any adjustments
i’m still cutting off the top of the upper layer
so i need to make the piece wider to allow for that
i can do that with the micro adjustment screw on my stop
as i said in the previous video where i use this jig
my fingers are close to the blade and i’m comfortable with that
but even though i’m doing this i’m certainly not recommending that you do the same
and it’s up to you to determine what’s safe in your own workshop
i use a hold down stick to apply pressure
when the work piece gets too short
you could use this for all the cuts
and it wouldn’t be difficult to set up a clamp for the jig either
that’s the pine ones cut now onto the cedar
they’re not cutting super clean
so i’m not confident I’ve picked the best wood for this
when i come to take shavings
the wood needs the plane well
and i’m thinking now that i’ll probably get some tear out
but i’ll keep going and i’ll see what happens
next i’ll cut some strips of veneer
and notice which direction the grain is running
in the final piece that i’ll try and take shavings off
the face will be all face grain
so it’s important to get the grain direction right
not only in the veneers but in all of the pieces
now that the pieces are glued up into prisms
i’ll use these to start building up
the rest of the pattern by gluing them together
first i need to clean them up a little
just to remove any stray glue so they fit together well
i haven’t made many sticks
so i’ll cut them in half to give me more pieces to work with
i noticed when i removed the rubber bands
that i hadn’t done a very good job of the glue up
and now i’m realizing how poor they really 
are
there’s a lot of gaps which i could have negated
by adding a couple more twists to the rubber band
and tightening them up
i’ll know for next time but i’ll continue with it
and if i can’t get a good shaving from the finish block
i’ll still be able to use the block itself for something
now i’m gluing four prisms together
with the veneers to make a larger prism
the cedar ones really aren’t looking so good
i didn’t do a very good job of lining the pieces up
when i glued together the original prisms
i’m confident though that next time i try this pattern
i’ll make some improvements
now i need to glue two prisms together to make a diamond
this is the last step before slicing up the sticks into tiles
and building up the final pattern
for the strips of veneers that go between the 
tiles
the grain will run the opposite way
to all the strips that i’ve cut so far
again, this is to ensure that there’s no end grain showing in the final block
i put some packing tape on the workbench
to clamp the cedar block down too
and i also use the piece of scrap foam board to spread the weight
as the veneers are slightly proud
i’m nearly there
the last thing to do
is to add a strip of veneer down the sides of the blocks
to make it more stable
and easier for planing the shavings
i’ll glue it to a piece of plywood
and i’ll also glue a block of pine to each end
to protect the start and the end of the shavings
i really didn’t have high hopes for this
but while flattening the surface
it actually looked more promising than i thought
you can see all the gaps quite clearly now it’s flattened
it’s not ideal but let’s just give it a go
and wow that’s a full shaving
there are plenty of gaps but all the pieces are there and they’re intact
it’s holding together well
after carefully flattening it with the iron
if i use these shavings i’ll have to add some filler here and there
but the outcome is much better than i’d hoped
after gluing the original prisms and noticing all the gaps
the block is only 9mm thick
i probably should have made it thicker
which i’ll definitely do next time
but the shavings are only a third of a millimeter
so i should still be able to get a fair amount from it
the cedar ones are holding together too
but as i said earlier
they’re not lined up as well
and there’s also some tear out
but with some filler to patch it up
i reckon they’ll still be usable
the video wouldn’t be complete
without making something using the shavings
i’ll do that next
but first i’ll just mention as quite a few people have asked
i managed to make a few bookmarks with the old Yosegi pattern
and they’re up on my website now
i really didn’t have time to make many
so if you want one you’ll probably have to be quick
i quickly made this small box off camera
and i’ll finish it off with the new shavings
i made the box to the dimensions of the pattern
so the pattern continues all the way around
i’m not spending too long on the box
and to speed things up i’m using water-based varnish
just so i can get a few coats on fast
it’s probably not the best finish
but it’ll be fine
i said earlier that i’d need to add some filler
but i haven’t added any to the pattern at all
and it does look pretty good
i did fill a small crack on the cedar top
but that was all
to cut the lid off i’m using the thinnest saw that i have
and to help with that
i’m going to try sticking a guide to it with double-sided tape
i’ve not tried this before
but i can’t see why it shouldn’t work
because it’s been clamped down
i’m sawing all the way through the ends
but leaving some on the sides and i’ll finish those off next
i made the box and finished it all in a day
it’s not the best being so rushed
but i know my daughter will be happy with it anyway
there’s many more patterns to attempt in Yosegi
and i may attempt those in future videos
let me know if that’s something you want to see
hopefully you enjoyed this video
if you did please like and subscribe
thanks for watching
and i’ll see you on the next one